A Food Travelogue on Kashmiri Cuisine, Recommendations Included

Imagine the crisp air of Kashmir, with snow-capped mountains looming in the distance and the smell of aromatic spices wafting through the streets.

As I explored this stunning region in March, I couldn’t help but marvel at the rich culinary traditions that have been passed down for generations.

Kashmiri cuisine is a testament to the land’s diverse cultural influences and a reflection of the challenging climate. From the warming spiciness of rogan josh to the comforting richness of harisa, each dish has a story to tell.

As I delved deeper into the world of Kashmiri food, I discovered the unique cooking techniques behind methi, rishta, goshtaba, and the centerpiece of any special occasion, the wazwan.

And of course, no visit to Kashmir would be complete without savoring the beloved kahwa and the addictive walnut fudge.

Join me on a journey through the flavors and textures of Kashmiri cuisine, and discover how this region’s food has captivated travelers for centuries.

Kahwa: The Aromatic Delight of Kashmir

Kashmiri Kahwa, a traditional green tea infused with spices such as saffron, cinnamon, and cardamom, is a popular beverage in the valley.

The aromatic tea is typically brewed with sugar or honey and topped with chopped almonds or walnuts, giving it a unique flavor and texture that is both refreshing and invigorating.

During my trip to Kashmir, I had the pleasure of trying Kahwa at two different establishments, each with its own unique experience.

The first was at Dar Kesar Mehal, a popular stop known for selling authentic saffron and dry fruits, situated along the saffron fields.

Here, we were welcomed with a complimentary cup of Kahwa, and the aroma of saffron in the tea was captivating.

The perfect blend of spices and sweetness made it a delightful cup of tea, and we enjoyed it while admiring the beautiful saffron fields.

At Chai Jaai, a popular eatery in Srinagar, I was served Kahwa in an ornate copper vessel known as a samovar.

The tea was poured from a height, adding to the drink’s appeal. To accompany the tea, it was served with a side of Girda, a traditional Kashmiri bread, and a bowl of Gulkand, a sweet preserve made from rose petals.

The combination of the warm Kahwa, the soft and fluffy Girda, and the sweet Gulkand made for a delightful culinary experience.

The warm and inviting aroma of Kahwa is an integral part of Kashmiri hospitality and culture.

A cup of Kahwa not only warms the body but also refreshes the mind and is a must-try when in Kashmir.

While you may consider shopping from the streets of Kashmir, there is a chance of being duped. Hence always refer to shops in Polo View Road, Srinagar. Or you may shop online and spare yourself additional luggage.

A kahwa is nothing without saffron which lends it the warming nature and bright color. I was specifically interested in Kashmiri saffron which grows near Pampore.

If you travel from Srinagar to Pahalgam, your cab driver will certainly make a stop near the saffron fields with huge shops that sell Kashmiri saffron and dry fruits and spices.

I have been to one only and hence can say that they are good and sell good quality stuff. Nevertheless, here are some popular options on authentic Kashmiri saffron.

If you have some space in your baggage, I would suggest you buy from an authentic source. The price should be anywhere between 250/- and 350/- for 1 gm.

Harisa: A Hearty Kashmiri Delight

If you’re looking for a dish that perfectly captures the heart and soul of Kashmiri cuisine, look no further than harisa.

This rich and hearty porridge-like dish is made from a blend of lamb, rice, and spices, slow-cooked to perfection over several hours.

The result is a savory, satisfying meal that is as comforting as it is delicious.

Harisa is a traditional Kashmiri dish that has been enjoyed for generations, especially during the cold winter months when the hearty flavors and warm, comforting texture are most appreciated.

The dish has its roots in the Persian and Central Asian cuisines that have influenced the region over the centuries, and it is considered a staple of Kashmiri cuisine.

To make harisa, the lamb and rice are first soaked overnight, then slowly simmered in a large pot with a blend of aromatic spices like cumin, cinnamon, and cardamom.

The mixture is cooked over low heat for several hours, until the lamb is fall-apart tender and the rice has broken down into a thick, creamy porridge.

The result is a dish with a texture that is similar to risotto or oatmeal, but with a flavor that is uniquely Kashmiri.

When I tried harisa for the first time at a local restaurant in Srinagar, I was struck by the rich, complex flavors of the dish.

The lamb was incredibly tender and flavorful, and the blend of spices gave the porridge a depth of flavor that was both warming and satisfying.

The dish was served with a side of glistening oil or ghee, which added an extra layer of richness to the already decadent dish.

Finally, pieces of kebab (seekh kebab) and methi was placed over and served.

Harisa is a dish that is meant to be savored slowly, and it is often enjoyed with family and friends over long, leisurely meals.

The girda and harisa was a match made in heaven so that mortals like me could relish on earth.

It is a testament to the warmth and hospitality that is so central to Kashmiri culture, and it is a dish that I will always associate with the fond memories of my travels in the region.

In conclusion, harisa is a must-try dish for anyone visiting Kashmiri or interested in trying the cuisine of the region.

Its hearty flavors and warm, comforting texture make it the perfect dish to enjoy on a cold winter’s day, and its cultural significance and history make it an important part of Kashmiri cuisine.

Exploring the Rich Flavors of Wazwan in Kashmir

Wazwan is a traditional multi-course meal that is the pride of Kashmiri cuisine.

I had the opportunity to try it during my trip to Kashmir in March, and it was a culinary adventure that I won’t soon forget.

We tried Wazwan at two different restaurants in Srinagar – Ahdoos and Kareema.

At both places, the meal began with the serving of rice with lamb seekh kebab and methi.

The methi is a Kashmiri non-vegetarian dish and has nothing to do with fenugreek or methi. It is prepared from minced parts of lamb and cooked along with spices.

Since this was the first dish on the plate, the start of the wazwan made for a lovely start.

This was followed by rishta, a type of meatball that is cooked in a rich gravy of curd and spices. The dish has a red gravy. Personally, I did not like this at either Ahdoos or Kareema.

Perhaps because at both places the meat was rather chewy, with the flavor of cardamom being very evident.

From the various readings that I did, the making of a meatball is a rather laborious task, requiring hours of continuous beating the meat to a pulp.

With both restaurants seeing good footfall, it perhaps is no longer possible and hence they have to resort to equipment like mixers and grinders.

The mutton rogan josh came next, which is a signature Kashmiri dish of slow-cooked mutton in a red gravy made with a blend of spices.

Finally, the meal concluded with goshtaba, which is a meatball made of pounded mutton that is simmered in a yogurt-based gravy. Unlike the rista which has a red gravy, the goshtaba has a white gravy.

The serving of goshtaba signifies the end of the meal.

It is customary for nothing else to be served after this dish, signaling that the meal is officially over.

Personally speaking, I found rishta and goshtaba to be very average.

While the rest of the meal was a burst of flavors, these two dishes did not quite make the cut for me.

However, I do understand that taste preferences can vary, and I encourage everyone to try these dishes for themselves.

Overall, the Wazwan provided me a good beginner’s understanding of the Kashmiri cuisine.

The intricate preparation of each dish, the unique blend of spices, and the presentation of the meal were all impressive.

While rishta and goshtaba may not be my personal favorites, I highly recommend trying Wazwan during your visit to Kashmir to experience the rich flavors and traditions of this cuisine.

Indulging in the Richness of Moonlight’s Walnut Fudge

During my visit to Srinagar, I was thrilled to taste the traditional walnut fudge at Moonlight, a shop that has been selling this delicacy since 1896.

As we finished our early morning visit to the Friday Dargah Market, my eyes were drawn to Moonlight the Walnut Fudge.

Without hesitation, we stepped into the shop, and I couldn’t help but notice the small cubes of fudge on display, looking absolutely delicious. I was eager to try it.

The fudge had a perfect blend of three main ingredients – walnuts, honey, and dates.

I was impressed that the fudge was not overly sweet, allowing the flavors of the dates and walnuts to stand out.

The nutty taste of the walnuts was perfectly complemented by the sweetness of the honey and dates, leaving a rich and creamy aftertaste in my mouth that lingered for a while.

Although the price of the fudge seemed a bit high, at 1100 rupees per kilo, I found it to be worth every penny due to its quality and taste. The average cost of a serving was around 80 rupees, which was reasonable.

If you are a sweet tooth like me, I strongly recommend trying out the mouthwatering walnut fudge at Moonlight. It’s an experience you won’t regret.

Srinanagar’s Khayam Chowk – Srinagar’s Kebab Street

Who does not like tandoori and kebab?

And so we blocked an evening to tour the Kebab Chowk of Srinagar. Our spirits were dampened as it started drizzling and because of rain earlier in the day, the streets had small puddles.

The streets are lined with shops that sell only tandoori and kebabs. Mostly lamb and chicken and occassionaly beef too.

While travelling, I had asked our cab driver on meat eating – and he opined that Kashmiri Muslims mostly ate chicken, while lamb was once in a while.

He also mentioned that beef was “bada meat” or “big meat” and hence was never a daily affair, it was cooked and served on special occasions.

We took our seat and ordered mutton seekh kebab and ‘tsot’.

A tsot is a bread, and in our case it was made of rice and common flour.

A plate containing 4 different types of chutneys were served.

1. Radish chutney – This was served at every shop where we had kebabs or tujj
2. Curd-based chutney – This was mildly sour and balanced with spices
3. Tomato chutney
4. Tomato & cucumber chutney

Finely chopped cucumber and onion tossed in a wok with condiments and spices was served as well.

A piece of tsot and the seekh kebab together with a dabbing of the chutneys make for an unexplainable combination – melt in the mouth, smoky flavors with the contrasting yet balanced tang and zing form the chutneys!

A must try if you like kebabs and tandoori dishes!

Other Honorable Mentions

While you have read about few examples of the soul of Kashmiri food, there were several others that helped us during our travel – sometimes to address hunger, or just for experience.

Instant Noodles

Instant noodles have for a decade been associate with hills and mountains.

Always available at roadside shacks, pushover carts and small kiosks, instant noodles are cheap on the pocket and help address hunger.

Most importantly in cold climate, instant noodles help warm you up almost instantly.

Surprising, yet true!

Mutton Polao & Rogan Josh at Paradise Hotel & Restaurant

A trip to Pahalgam should never be considered complete if you did not try the food at Paradise Hotel and Restaurant.

Situated in the main market of the city, the place is quite old and serves authentic and flavorful mutton pulaos.

On inquiring I found that the rice for mutton and chicken pulao is cooked together. The mutton pulao has loads of mutton chunks that are fried and tossed in spices and then served with the pulao.

The polao is topped with almonds, raisins and other dry fruits. It is served with coriander chutney.

For sure this is the best mutton polao I ever had till date.

The second dish to not miss here is the mutton rogan josh.

Prepared in the authentic Kashmiri Muslim way, the mutton rogan josh is not extremely spicy and hot. The flavors from the spices are well balanced and does not hurt the tastebuds.

The gravy is not too runny or too thick, while the rogan is clearly visible. The pieces of mutton are juicy and quite big in size.

It can be eaten with rice, tandoori roti or nan bread.

Ice Cream at Erina & Diplaz

You may be in an extremely cold weather, however, that should never stop you from relishing and enjoying ice creams.

The most reputed place for ice creams and shakes is Erina, at Residency Road which is near Lal Chowk in Srinagar.

The mango milk shake is very famous and often gets over. However, I found it average.

Ice cream cones were good.

While the locals swear by Erina, Diplaz which is just next to Erina does a good job too with their ice cream.

However, what I was most impressed with was the steamed chicken momos. As is evident, I finished it off in one go and did not give myself the chance to click pics!

Don’t miss the shakes at Erina and the chicken momos at Diplaz!

The Food at Albarq

While we stayed at several hotels during this trip, nothing could match the food served at Albarq Cottages in Gulmarg.

We stayed for a night here and our package included dinner and breakfast.

For dinner, the hotel served us rice, dal, potato peas curry, chicken curry and paneeer. We let go of the paneer as it is unhealthy and forbidden in ayurveda!

The deal was creamy, the chicken curry was flavorful and fragrant and ticked the right boxes.

The potato peas curry was delightful and I never imagined that this humble dish could be this tasty. There was a hint of tang, carefully spiced and sends the tastebuds on a joyride.

If you plan to stay at Albarq Cottages & Cafe, don’t miss on their food!

Kashmiri Cuisine: A Foodie’s Paradise

I am passionate about exploring new cuisines and during my research on Kashmiri food, I was fascinated by the unique flavors and ingredients used in the dishes.

The blend of aromatic spices and rich flavors make Kashmiri cuisine a must-try for any food enthusiast.

From the succulent meat dishes like Rogan Josh and Gushtaba to the vegetarian delicacies like Nadru Yakhni and Dum Aloo, Kashmiri food has something to offer for everyone.

I highly recommend visiting the suggested restaurants and cafes to get the full experience of Kashmiri cuisine. Trust me, it’s a culinary journey you won’t regret taking.